Days 65 to 70: photo journal

Day 65: about 32 miles south of Pie Town to just past Wall Lake

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Lunch under a juniper tree

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Bark of Alligator Skin juniper

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Gila National Forest

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Day 66: Wall Lake to Mesa campground

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More Gila National Forest

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Arlene and Bill who were camping at Mesa campground, half-emptied their camper of food and gave it to us, then we chewed the fat over a Gatorade – they were lovely!

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Day 67: Mesa campground to Silver City

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Old town of Pinos Altos

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Day 68 and 69 (done in one day): Silver City to verge halfway down Highway 146

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Riding through the Yucca desert

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Riding across washes

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Dead town of Separ (now just a single shop)

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Deserted Highway 146 (that’s Mexico in the distance)

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Dodging Border Control Guards stealth-camping on the edge of the highway in the Chihuahua desert

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Day 70: 10 miles down Highway 146 to Hachita

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Miles of road on Highway 9 to Columbus with very few cars bar Border Police (and one in a bullet-proof vest going up and down the barbed wire fence on a quad bike)

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Should be illegal but isn’t:

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Finally…

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Some bins at the border

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Going to cheat and end on this one (actually Colorado) as my border shot is dead boring but it’s not really *air punch* territory

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Escoozie, are you Mecheeco?

Done it – made it to Mexico!

Got there 1 night, 2 days after leaving Silver City. Day 1 you’re mostly riding through Yucca desert until you reach Separ (which is a shop, period) and take the road directly south to Hachita (a couple of houses and a dog), where you hit Tarmac with not a lot either side of it.

Well, in the day time there’s not a lot. In the night time, there’s me in my tent on the side of the highway trying to hide behind a bush. I fear I was unsuccessful but the Border Control Guards patrolling up and down in their cars left me alone and it was quite a peaceful night with just them and a small hot air balloon drone in the area as there’s no real reason for anyone else to be there unless you’re an illegal immigrant making a run for it, drug or people trafficker.

View from my strategic hideout:

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I didn’t see any illegal activity but I did see THIS:

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No exaggeration to say it’s mandibles were at least a foot long and as thick as my arm. Seriously.

Day 2 you just put The Best of Fleetwood Mac or the Les Miserables West End cast recording some cool tunes on loop and ride down a near empty road towards mirages and endless false horizons before the tiny town of Columbus appears, 3 miles north of the border.

I’m including this sign as proof as the border shot below could be taken anywhere but it is in fact at the Mexican border between Columbus and Palomas.

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Border shot:

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The Latin flair for knowing how to throw a proper party obviously rubbed off on Daniel and I (who showed up a few hours after me despite haven’t ridden an extra 50 miles or so!) as we drank a couple of beers, ate tortilla chips and sour cream dip, got pissed off with the mosquitos and retreated to our tents at about 8.30pm.

We did go across the border in the morning to see what Mexico looked like, riding about 200m down the main street, the buildings petering out into empty desert so turning around and riding 200m back to the border. The Mexican border guards waved us through on our bikes without even looking to see if we had passports, let alone opening and scanning them. Predictably, getting back into the US was tougher and involved a 15 minute wait in the waiting room without my passport nervously contemplating whether they were right, I am a terrorist, I just don’t know it yet.

So that’s it for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route! Vital statistics are:

Total number of miles: 2,900 (well, not really given the route is 2,700 but an extra 70 to El Paso, off-route campsites, going the wrong way a few times and a weaving front wheel up steep slopes means the odometer has both accurately and falsely upped the mileage)
Days: 67 days in total, about 8-9 of those being rest days
Longest day: 77 miles paved road, 74 dirt roads
Total climbing: over 200,000 ft, more than 7 times up Everest from sea level
Punctures: 6. Let’s not talk about them
Fellow runners and riders: 4 DNFs out of 13 other riders met (excluding those who only ever planned to do part of it)
Calories consumed: at least 40 billion. Seriously.
End tan: is that the girl from Ipanema I see?
Leg muscle tone: think the sculpted limbs of a wild mustang
Falls: 1 proper one in sand in New Mexico, 1 minor slip after being indecisive in mud and 1 minor one when exhausted and going so slowly up a hill I toppled over sideways
Most listened to music: Invisible Touch (Genesis) for pushing up hills in Canada and Montana; I Am Woman (Helen Reddy) for similar hill pushing; my Random Spotify playlist; Best of the 80s; Reggae Legends (long, not too steep Colorado hill climbs); Best of Fleetwood Mac and, shhhhh…., Les Miserable West End cast recording when knocking out the miles in the flat bits of New Mexico
Favourite towns: Fernie, Steamboat and Salida
Worst towns: Rawlins and Grants (sorry Grants, part of me does like you really…)
Favourite bits: Richmond Peak, stretch round the outside of Glacier NP, Fleecer Ridge, first few days in Canada, Boreas Pass and stretch from Cuba to Grants
Highest scoring animals: Grizzly bear (with hindsight, that was previously under-marked) and the beaver

Finally, thanks America, you’ve been a great host! Thanks to the people for their unfailing kindness and generosity, gifts of food and drink, verbal encouragement or a simple thumbs up out the window of a passing car – you made my trip – and thanks to the land for putting on an amazing visual display!

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(It says ‘The End’ in Reggie’s map holder but you can’t see it that well)

Kit list

Cycling shorts, Cycling leggings, 2 x merino sleeveless tops, Merino t-shirt, Long-sleeved hooded merino top, Down jacket, Windproof jacket, Waterproof jacket, Waterproof trousers, Cycling gloves, Wool gloves, White skirt, Pink shorts, Cream top, Sunglasses, Buff, 2 x pairs of socks, 2 x sports bras and one normal bra, Knickers, Eye patches, Flip flips, Five Ten cycling shoes, Travel towel, First aid kit, Toiletries, Face scrubber, Bear bell, Bear spray, Mosquito repellent, Suntan cream, Chamois crème and Sudocreme, Bowl and spork, 2 water bottles, Platypus water bladder, Foldable rucksack, Water purification tablets, Neutralising tablets, iPad, Camera, Adaptor, Power Monkey Extreme solar charger battery pack, SPOT GPS tracker, Garmin GPS, Spare batteries, 7 x Maps, Cycling the Great Divide book, Bike repair kit (2 x inner tubes, Puncture repair kit, Chain lube, Chain links, Multi-tool, Zip ties). Sent home: Second pair of cycling shorts, Long-sleeved top, Leggings, Trousers, Socks, Stove, Plate, Saucepan, Washing up cloth, Kindle, Bear canister. Purchased on tour: T-shirt and water bottle from Steamboat Springs, Fleece leggings, Sun sleeves, Leg warmers 

Interview given at end of the trip

http://www.josiebikelife.com/2015/01/women-on-bikes-series-anna-w.html

Women on Bikes Series: Anna Williams

I’m 37, live in London and work in Market Research – I’m a freelancer, hence I gave myself a bit of time off to ride the Divide!

Day-to-day I enjoy outdoor activities but am not over-achieving sporty type (in fact, I’ve come in the bottom 10 of a triathlon TWICE!). In terms of cycling, I didn’t have a bike until the start of 2013, which I bought as I’d entered a 100 race on a post-Olympics high, not really expecting to get in but I found out in January I got a place through the ballot.

So I trained for that, enjoyed cycling and, with a natural love of travel and of the US, an extended bike trip out there seemed a good idea. 
Plus I love animals and the thought of seeing bears, wild horses and antelopes was just too enticing! And I like burgers…and fries…and milkshakes…so, all-in-all, there was a big draw to do the Divide and, aside from fear of losing clients having a career break, not too much holding me back. I figured life on the road would be cheaper than day-to-day London living. 

What motivated you to start cycling? 

I’m an Olympics baby! I watched the London Olympics Road Race live and that, coupled with all the buzz in London post-games made me enter the ballot for a place in the Ride London 100 mile event, a public race which follows the Olympics course, just with fewer climbs of Box Hill. I was lucky enough to get a place, bought a bike and that was the start of me cycling.

I didn’t really start combining adventure and cycling until I did a few overnight microadventures a few hours from where I live in London. Around the same time, a good friend of mine (http://uninspiredramblings.com/ )got quite into bike touring and his enthusiasm rubbed off a bit!

You recently rode the Divide, what made you decide to take on that challenge? 

Interesting you use the word challenge as I wasn’t looking to challenge myself, just enjoy a fun ride somewhere beautiful, although I suppose there are far easier routes I could have chosen!

The Divide ticked all my important boxes:

I’m not really a planner and didn’t feel I had the time, patience or inclination to pour over maps and plan a route of my own: I fancied a route I could do pretty much straightaway or I felt I may go off the idea (then latterly regret it) or life would take over and my plans would never materialise. Being able to buy easy to follow maps of a route and a book from the American Cycling Association  with a suggested 70 day breakdown of the route was perfect for me

     It’s off-road but not mountain-biking: I had an accident on the roads that actually put me off cycling for 15 years!  I was forced to overcome that fear whilst training for the 100 mile race but a mild fear of cars still lingers. I’m not a MTBer so didn’t want too off-road – the Divide is the perfect mix of not much tarmac but not too much standing on the pedals, white-knuckle stuff either

     I love that sort of scenery and am a big animal fan: the sun shining off glacial streams, Grizzly bears going for a wonder, miles of pristine forest, colourful alpine flowers, wild antelope… enough said!

     It’s in an English-speaking country: I went on my own and, given it was a short break rather than immersing myself in a longer, global tour, the idea of being able to readily converse with the locals appealed. Not that I’m adverse to non-English countries – far from it! – I think it just felt that at least one element would be familiar when engaging in an activity I hadn’t done anything like before and sometimes I think you need a little comfort factor

What was one of the most difficult experiences you encountered while riding the Divide? 

Physically, mud in Wyoming and some rocky climbs in New Mexico!

Mentally, it was one when someone I met early on in the trip pretty much I implied I wouldn’t be able to do it. I was furious at him for being so de-motivating  and crushing someone’s dreams before they’d really got going in even trying to make them true!

What was one of the most exciting experiences you’ve had while riding the Divide? 

Some of the thunderstorms were epic!  One struck when I was on a particularly primitive road which soon turned to clay and I was literally stuck in the mud, so had to dump my bike by the side of the road, pick up my panniers and make my way to a few square feet of rocky ground that could support a tent. I spent the night there with an unpegged-down tent being rolled in the wind like a tumbleweed ball with me inside it. Next morning, I saw some Grizzly bear prints in the mud not far down the road – exciting night!  

How did you prepare yourself for the journey? 

I tried not to get overly caught up in preparation and get carried away reading too many forums etc. where you read contradictory things which mean it can take you ages to make any kit-buying decisions! I bought Tom Allen’s Essential Gear for Adventure Cycle Touringhttp://gearforcycletouring.com/?from=13 which is great for, in the author’s words, “non-gear-nerds”.

Deciding which bike I wanted was the main thing but it didn’t take me long to settle on a Surly Troll. Physically I made sure I was reasonably fit but figured we simply don’t have the same scale hills in the UK as in the Rockies so there was no point in trying to get myself up to Divide-level fitness before I was out there as it simply wouldn’t happen!

Most of my prep was psychological, telling myself I only had to try it, not finish it.

Was the ride everything you had hoped it would be? If you were to do it again, would you change anything? 

It was more than I hoped it would be! I wasn’t really sure whether I’d find the Divide too physically and mentally challenging, or too remote, but it wasn’t at all.

I’d love to do it again. I was glad I did it on my own and would actually recommend others do so too: contrary to what you might expect, you can have more fun as I think local people are more prone to approaching and offering a meal, accommodation etc. to people on their own; you come across plenty of other riders to not feel lonely; and challenging conditions – hills, fatigue etc. – can put a real strain on relationships so, if you started the route with the wrong person, I think you’re unlikely to finish it with that person!. However, if I do it a second time, I’d consider riding it with someone else purely to change the dynamic from my first experience (and cut down the number of selfies taken).

What did you learn about yourself on the trip? 

I learnt that if I do things my own way, there probably is quite a lot I can achieve in life and if I try and follow what works for other people, the opposite may be true!   

Doing the Divide my style was really important to me and I didn’t follow a lot of the ‘rules’ about travelling light, training etc., but I followed an approach that intuitively felt right to me. I don’t mean I ignored the advice of experienced people or didn’t make what-to-take decisions without a sensible head on, I just felt that if I was to have a fighting chance of reaching Mexico, I’d have to travel in a way that I knew I could deal with and enjoy. So I followed my instincts about what I felt was an ok fitness to go into it with, how much researching the route to do beforehand etc. and, sure enough, it worked for me!  I think that if I’d been steered too much by other people, I’d have got overwhelmed and not even started it.

Which location during your ride did you feel was your most favorite and why? 

You can’t ask that – that’s like asking a parent which child is their favourite when they see equally great things in their whole brood!

If I had to pick one bit, I’ll say Fleecer Ridge which is notorious for an extremely steep, hike-a-bike DOWNhill section.  I’d been dreading it but it was beautiful and I loved the idea that it had totally blown my expectations out the water. 

What should people know about the Divide before they make the decision to go on their own journey? 

That it’s not as hard as some people make out! I think people in general (especially blokes 😉 ) have a tendency to over-dramatize how hard things are as it makes for a better story than saying “it’s fine”.  Get in the right mindset, and it’s really enjoyable and not too physically challenging at all! It becomes clear over time that there is no flat on the route (end of New Mexico aside), just less steep versions of up or down – but accept that fact early doors and you’re laughing!  

And be prepared for bad weather – the temperature fluctuated by 35oC when I was out there – so don’t leave the bulky cold / wet weather gear behind thinking you’re willing to chance it.

Do you use clipless pedals? If yes, what are some tips/suggestions for beginners that you would share? If no, are you thinking of trying it out at all? 

I actually use flat pedals. I know they’re not as efficient but after my accident I have a mild fear of being attached to my bike, even though I know it’s unjustified as you can release very quickly!

What do you love about riding your bike? 

It’s hard to put into words but there’s something quite magical in manoeuvring a heaving beast of a fully-laden bike off the ground into the standing position, swinging your leg over and then, with one simply foot stroke, you glide away almost effortlessly!

Tell us about your bike(s), what they are like and why did you choose them? 

I’ve got a Trek 7.6 which was a fairly light-weight but not too expensive bike for my 100 mile race. I wanted a hybrid bike as I’m not familiar with drop handlebars and they scare me!  

For the Great Divide I got a 14” Surly Troll as they have a great rep as an off-road touring bike and, being 5ft 2, 29ers aren’t a great option for me so that rules out a few models.

What clothing/bike accessories do you love? What would you recommend to your friends? 

My FiveTen Freerider shoes are fab – so comfy and better than proper cycling shoes for when you need to get off and push – and Assos shorts cost a fortune but I love them!

What do you feel deters women from getting involved with cycling? 

If you’re talking about cycling touring specifically, I’d say it’s a fear of not knowing enough about the mechanics of bikes. I did a basic maintenance and still don’t know a lot about how to fix a bike but I knew enough to stay safe on the Divide. Unless you’re really, really remote, the chances are you can have a mechanical failure and someone will rescue you in a few hours so you don’t need to know how to fix anything but the basics of puncture repair and brake tightening are invaluable. 

What do you feel could happen to make changes and/or encourage more women to ride? 

I think blokes get a kick out of a bike being a machine to love and tinker with. I’m not sure women have the tinkering gene to the same extent and it’s more just a medium of transport! If more women felt comfortable in the fact that you don’t have to be part of a bike-loving, gear-nerd crowd to enjoy riding, there might be a few more female bikers.

 

Days 60 to 64 photo journal

Day 60: 14 miles from the turn-off the highway from Cuba to a few miles north of Felipe Tafoya Grant private land

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Cerro Parido

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Dry river

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Filling up with water out the well

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Tiny Daniel

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Me

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Camping spot

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Day 61: north of Felipe Grant boundary to Grants

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Morning fog

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Up and down the steep sides of arroyo (water channels)

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World’s biggest cricket

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RATTLESNAKE!!!

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Day 62: Grants to Armijo Canyon on the El Malpais alternate

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Sandstone bluff overlook

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La Ventura natural arch

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Day 63: Armijo Canyon to Pie Town

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The Toaster House in Pie Town – let yourself in and make yourself at home!

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Reminded me of Hope’s flat on the ground floor of my house

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With Nita who owns it but leaves it open for Great Divide cyclists and hikers on the Continental Divide Trail

(Note the toasters in the bushes)

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Day 64: Pie Town to somewhere near a stretch of private land in the Gila National Forest

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Not before we’ve had some pie…

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One of the 2 water source options for that day. The other one wasn’t a goer either but someone gave me 2 litres!

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Escondido Mountain

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The Drop

This is Dick and his 4 rescue dogs.

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I first met Dick when cycling out of the wilds and into Grants. He has a thing for cycle tourers after having helped the Adventure Cycling Association draw up the map for Northern New Mexico. He very kindly got out a map of Grants and marked on the need-to-know info: which Chinese to avoid and which is decent (neither were visited), the location of Walmart (useful) and Dennies (now you’re talking!).

Daniel also bumped into Dick later that day and Dick offered to leave some water midway between Grants and Pie Town (2 days away) to save having to carry the extra weight. I think Daniel thanked him but said it wasn’t necessary and we thought that was the last of our very helpful friend.

Then as I was cycling through the Badlands the next day, a guy on a motorbike pulls over and it’s Dick saying he’s made the drop and left water and other goodies in some bags hidden “in the bushes along the fence to the west of the cattle grid that you cross when you peel off the main road onto the road to Pie Town”. Off I trotted with childish excitement and soon found the stash exactly where he’d indicated:

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There were 2 massive bottles of water (too much for me to carry) and this:

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And also this:

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How nice! Brightened up what was already a great day cycling down the El Malpais alternate on what was clearly national cricket Let’s Have Sex! day as 8 out of 10 crickets on the road were at it. The others were, I suspect, either post-coital or in the bushes spraying themselves with Lynx or Impulse ready to paint the Tarmac red. I seriously think there is a mass mating day as after that I saw little cricket-cricket contact bar those eating a friend who’d been squashed on the road – they are ruthless!

On top of the sandstone bluff south of Grants on the El Malpais alternate:

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La Ventura arch:

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Next stop was Pie Town, historically and still famous for its pies. As I was cycling down the road towards some pie and the Toaster house (a must-stay place in PT), a car pulled up alongside me and, as we were both cruising along, the female passenger asked me what I was doing etc. The whole interaction was a little odd and the bloke driving looked like a cross between a garden gnome and those little troll figures you get in places like gift shops in Cornwall and you wonder who’d buy them when you could just get a box of clotted cream fudge for a couple of quid, job done. Eventually the woman asked if I was going to stay at the Toaster house to which I said yes. She replied that it was her house, took a photo of me out the window as we were both still cruising along and silently drove off. Bit odd…

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I made it to the Toaster house to find Daniel there having done a full reccy and found out the essentials. It’s the former family home of Nita (the woman in the car, who now lives on a ranch) and she leaves the place unlocked for cyclists and hikers to use. There’s a well-stocked fridge (we took beer) and freezer (frankfurters and bread, gone) and kitchen appliances so you can make yourself at home, which we did! Nita came round later (she’s not weird when you chat to her properly) with some delicious pie and some tomatoes and peppers, then took us on a tour round Pie Town. Pie Town has a population of 40. They do have a massive radio wave satellite, a windmill museum and 4 churches though.

The next morning we left a donation in the box in the Toaster house, headed to one if the 2 pie cafés for pie then pedalled on our way.

Staged pie-eating shot:

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